Make the most of your Interrail adventure: A travel writer's top tips
“For a committed train lover – such as myself – arriving at Tirano from the south with the railways of Switzerland lying ahead somewhere up there in the crisp Alpine air, feels like Christmas day and the culmination of a long pilgrimage all rolled into one."
So begins a section of travel writer Tom Chesshyre’s latest book, Slow Trains to Istanbul… And Back: A 4,570-Mile Adventure on 55 Rides. As the title suggests, Chesshyre covered substantial ground on his epic journey.
“This journey, dreamt up on a park bench in London’s Soho...covered 16 countries and involved many enlightening encounters. At least they were to me,” he writes.
To celebrate the publication of Slow Trains to Istanbul, Chesshyre made a list of tips for fellow train travellers – whether you’re about to embark on your first or fortieth rail adventure.
1) Just do it. That old Nike slogan (coined back in 1988) captures the essence of ‘you only live once’ without feeling like too much of a cliché. But the truth is you do – only live once – and while it is grand to talk about dreams, there is no substitute for just doing it: springing your plans into action.
2) Get a map. This will act as both a catalyst and help you crystallise your thoughts. Best to lay your hands on a physical map so you can squiggle on it, ideally in pencil so you can rub out your scrawls when you have a change of heart and choose another route (it feels like being a kid in a candy shop when faced with so many tempting possibilities). Maps are downloadable/printable on Eurail.com, or you can pick up a copy of Rail Map Europe (third edition).
3) Plan lightly. Rather than create a great detailed spreadsheet of intentions covering each day, allow yourself to wing it a bit. OK, yes, by all means have your first few days pretty well organised – you don’t want to get in a pickle at the start. But after, say, three nights, allow your route to take on its own life. This is what the ‘freedom of the tracks’ is all about.
4) Travel lightly. You don’t need much in your backpack – and an old-fashioned backpack is still best. Despite some travellers preferring roll-along bags, you will appreciate the pockets for easy access while you’re on the move. You do not need a great number of garments, and, let’s face it, you are unlikely to be invited to any gala events on your trip.
5) Venture off the beaten path. Ever wondered what goes on in Visp (Switzerland), Subotica (Serbia), Cieza (Spain) or Deva (Romania)? Perhaps not, but that’s not the point. Jumping off in Ruse by the Danube (home to Bulgaria’s National Transport Museum and some very old locomotives) and Kulata (a sleepy town on the Bulgarian-Greek border) can be rewarding, as I discovered.
6) Be brave. Allow yourself some confidence that, with booking websites so advanced these days, it’s possible to secure hotels at the last moment, even as your train is rolling into the station. However, it’s a good idea to double-check in advance that you’re not visiting during a festival of some sort when hotels are full. Or, if you’re going to a very small place, check that accommodation exists there in the first place .
7) Embrace technology. Learn all the ins and outs of the Eurail app; it was only after a while that I discovered a handy route map section showing the journey completed, number of countries visited and miles travelled. The more you mess about on the app, the better you understand it. The same is true of accommodation apps (always check reviews) and websites with tourist information. Download local Google Maps in advance whenever you’re on WiFi.
8) Talk to people. One of the great joys of trains is their sociable atmosphere — people open up so much more than on planes. How else would I have met Dr. Jasko (a retired Hungarian bauxite miner) on a train in Romania, Roxanne (a French criminal lawyer on a career break) on the sleeper to Istanbul, and Keli (an American renting out her place in Washington State and travelling the world by trains) in Puglia?
9) Daydream. Looking out the carriage window is good for this. Let the rhythm of the tracks rattle your thoughts in order.
10) Pack your swimsuit. It won’t take up much room in your backpack, and a dip in a pool, the sea or one of the many spas across Europe can be a great way to revive yourself after a long travel day.
11) Use the dining cars. This is connected to point #8 above; they’re great places to meet people. Where there is a proper a la carte service – not just a kiosk – go for it every time. How often do you get to tuck into a meal as Europe passes by your window? You do not have to fork out thousands to enjoy this luxury.
12) Stay close to train stations. This will generally make your life a lot easier.
13) Make the most of doing errands on your trip. For example, when you need to wash your clothes, choose a laundrette close to a cafe or bistro; why not make it an event to enjoy rather than endure?
14) Keep a journal. You don’t have to write long, detailed entries. Just an aide-memoire, if you like, for when you get back. You do, after all, only live once (as said above). It’s nice to look back and remember… and you’ll have plenty of time to write as you rattle along on all those trains.
Meet the Interrailer
Tom Chesshyre is the author of twelve travel books, his latest being Slow Trains to Istanbul… And Back: a 4,570-Mile Adventure on 55 Rides (Summersdale). He has travelled more than 40,000 miles around the world for his train books, which have included Slow Trains Around Spain: A 3,000-Mile Adventure on 52 Rides and Ticket to Ride: Around the World on 49 Unusual Train Journeys.
He worked on the travel desk of The Times for 21 years and is now freelance, contributing to the Daily Mail, The Mail on Sunday, The Critic and The New European magazines. He lives in London.
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