A local's guide to Dresden — and one of Europe's oldest Christmas markets
Rachel Schnalzer
11 December 2024
For 590 years, Dresden residents and travellers alike have celebrated the Christmas season at the city’s lively Striezelmarkt, which sprawls across a wide square in the city’s Old Town. The beloved month-long celebration is the oldest Christmas market in Germany – and perhaps the oldest in the world.
With all that history, it’s helpful to have a guide to make sense of it all. That’s where Anett Lentwojt, the founder of tour company Kennst Du Dresden?, comes in.
Anett grew up in a town near Dresden in the Ore Mountains. After studying the tourism economy at a university in the city, she moved 500 kilometres away from home to Stuttgart to work as a teacher. But after two years, her passion for tourism – and Dresden – called her back.
“ Dresden is a very good place to live,” Anett said. “We have many green parks here, we have the River Elbe here…we are very friendly, and it's a nice place to be.”
Kennst Du Dresden? offers a variety of general walking and cycling tours of the city, as well as specific tours focusing on topics such as sustainability, the city’s LGBTQ history, and Dresden’s famous Christmas markets.
On an Interrail trip to Christmas markets across Europe, my colleagues and I met up with Anett to learn more about Dresden’s holiday celebrations and how travellers can make the most of a visit to her city.
This interview has been edited and condensed for clarity.
Anett founded the tour company Kennst Du Dresden? in 2013. Its name, in English, translates to "Do you know Dresden?"
In 2024, Dresden's Striezelmarkt is celebrating its 590th year of operation.
Visitors to Dresden can watch bakers create Stollen at outdoor kitchens in the Striezelmarkt.
What makes Dresden's Christmas markets unique?
Dresden’s Striezelmarkt is a little bit different from other Christmas markets around the world – vendors are only allowed to sell products there when they have a traditional craft work. And, in addition to shopping, travellers should make sure to look for the decorations on top of the vendor booths – you’ll see animatronic figures baking bread, playing guitar and doing other activities. Just walking around the market and looking up at the decorations is a little adventure.
In addition to the Striezelmarkt, we have themed Christmas markets around the city – for example, there’s a Finnish village-themed market, a Middle Ages-themed market, and a market near the Frauenkirche that’s meant to feel like it’s taking place during the late 1800s.
What are the essential foods to try at a Dresden Christmas market?
When you come to Dresden during the Christmas season, you must taste the Stollen, a sweet bread with raisins and dusted with powdered sugar. Just go from bakery to bakery, tasting different types of Stollen, and buy the one you like the most.
We also have a specific type of gingerbread called Pulsnitzer Pfefferkuchen. The recipe is very old, dating back about 500 years or so – almost to the Middle Ages.
What’s a classic souvenir you can buy at a Dresden Christmas market?
Buy a small, painted figure made of wood – this is a traditional craft from the mountains of Saxony, going back to the 1700s.
Describe your perfect day in Dresden
I wake up – not too early in the morning – and I walk through the Baroque quarter of Dresden to Caféklatsch. It's a great cafe with a very good breakfast. Afterwards, I’ll go for a little walk down to the Elbe, take a seat and relax by the river for a while.
Then, I’ll stop by some art galleries or a museum, and in the afternoon, I’ll enjoy cake and coffee. This is a Saxon thing – we like cake and coffee in the afternoon. And in the evening, I’ll go out in the Outer New Town. I like jazz and indie music, so I’ll go to the Blue Note or the Groovestation and dance.
Speaking of Dresden’s New Town, what makes it a special place for travellers to visit?
If a traveller comes to Dresden for two days, on the first day, they’ll usually spend time discovering the Old Town. But on the second day, it’s good to walk across the River Elbe to the New Town.
In general, the Old Town is our representation area, but the New Town is our living area. If you want to meet the locals, then you go to the New Town. There are over 150 bars, restaurants, and cafes there, as well as music clubs. And, if you like street art, then you must go discover the New Town.
What are your favourite restaurants to recommend in Dresden?
When you visit Dresden, you have to taste the traditional Saxon food. You can go to Sophienkeller, DRESDEN 1900, Freiberger Schankhaus, or Gänsedieb.
You can also find plenty of international and vegan food here, especially in the New Town.
Anett shows members of Interrail's creative team around Dresden's Old Town.
The River Elbe, which cuts through the middle of Dresden, can be admired in every season.
We interviewed Anett inside the cafe on the top level of the Zwinger building — a hidden gem inside one of Dresden's most popular attractions.
Travellers can reach Bad Schandau station, a train station in Saxon Switzerland, by train from Dresden in just 45 minutes.
There are so many beautiful buildings in Dresden. Do you have a favourite?
I have two buildings that are my favourites. The first is Dresden Castle, which has an 800-year history. I love the story behind its reconstruction after World War II, as well as the exhibitions inside.
The second one is the Kulturpalast, which was built in the 1960s. It houses a large concert hall, where the Philharmonie plays, as well as the public library.
What’s a hidden gem travellers should see while in Dresden?
The Zwinger, a Baroque building that houses several museums, is one of the most famous buildings here in the city. But when you visit, make sure to go inside, to the top floor, where you’ll find a little cafe. It’s not well-known by tourists, and it’s a good place to enjoy a cake and coffee.
At the cafe, you’ll also get a front-row seat to the Zwinger’s Meissen porcelain bells. Just take a seat near them, and every 15 minutes, you’ll see and hear them play a short melody.
Do you have a favourite train journey from Dresden?
My favourite train ride is to Saxon Switzerland National Park. Just travel to Saxon Switzerland in the morning, take a hike in the rocky terrain, and go back to Dresden by train. It’s a very nice way to spend some time in nature and only 45 minutes away by train.
If you had to describe Dresden in one word. What would it be?
In one word? Beautiful.
Meet the Interrailer
Rachel Schnalzer is a senior writer at Eurail, based in Utrecht, the Netherlands. This winter, she travelled to Saxony, Alsace and Limburg with two of her colleagues to discover the ultimate European Christmas market itinerary.
Favourite Christmas market moment
"I really loved stepping into the Showroom Bakery at Dresden's Striezelmarkt. I can perfectly recall the sugary scent of the Stollen, baking over the wood-fired oven, and it was lovely getting the chance to meet the bakers who bring Dresden's culinary traditions to life."
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